The Fashion World Is Divided—Who’s Brave Enough to Evolve?
Courtesy of The Row
The Fashion World Is Divided—Who’s Brave Enough to Evolve?
HURS founder Bonnie Langedijk weighs in on the Spring Summer 2025 shows, the changing fashion ecosystem and what she thinks is next.
By Bonnie Langedijk
Fashion has been in free fall for a few seasons now. From luxury’s economic slowdown to the attention economy dictating what’s relevant, it’s clear the industry has lost sight of what’s driving culture. After Virgil Abloh’s reign, the streetwear wave, Gucci and Balenciaga’s grip and quiet luxury, fashion has slipped into uniformity. Runways and personal style feel formulaic, focused more on gimmicks and noise than fostering a real point of view. Brands and consumers are playing it safe, more interested in buying the right thing than developing an individual style.
But this season, some designers broke the mold, waking up to the fact that individuality is a rare currency in an era of conformity. Prada’s Creative Directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons recognized the barrage of imagery and information we live in and chose not to critique it, but embrace it. Their collection celebrated identity and choice, remixing Prada’s greatest hits through a modern lens. Marni was another standout. Known for its eccentricity, Francesco Risso paired it back, delivering one of his strongest collections yet, focused on the pursuit of beauty through essentialism.
Courtesy of Prada.
Courtesy of Marni.
In the era of social media, for many dressing has become performative—done for the validation of others, hunting for a like or a repost. In this quest for perfection, joy and experimentation are lost. Matthieu Blazy at Bottega Veneta countered this, exploring the childlike pleasure of getting dressed. Jil Sander’s Lucie and Luke Meier offered a masterclass in duality, finding harmony in contrast—something we desperately need in a world that’s increasingly binary. And for once, logos were left at the door. When your clothes aren’t doing the talking, you actually get to speak for yourself.
“These brands don’t chase the HYPE; they serve their loyalists, and it’s working.”
Meanwhile, brands like Hermès, Issey Miyake, Alaïa, and The Row stuck to their guns, choosing consistency over clout. Nadège Vanhee at Hermès leaned into what the house does best—focusing on the atelier and its craftsmanship—and stuck with the diverse casting she presented in New York; one that celebrated women of all sizes. The Row was characteristically understated but confident—a lesson in restraint only a few can pull off. And Pieter Mulier at Alaïa continues to breathe new life into the house with quiet elegance. These brands don’t chase the hype; they serve their loyalists, and it’s working.
Then there are those who are asleep at the wheel. I can name many examples of brands that felt stuck, churning out the same tired ideas. Whether it's a ploy to appeal to all or a fear-led approach to decision m-king, the result remains the same: a lack of a clear vision of who they are designing for. Some are more interested in generating a viral moment than crafting unforgettable clothes. The best shows this season didn’t chase attention; they were about the individual, not the spectacle.
Courtesy of Alaia
Courtesy of Hermès, photography by Santa Simond.
Fashion has a decision to make. In a world on fire—politically, socially, environmentally—what role does it want to play? Does it reflect reality or offer an escape? The divide is more pronounced than ever: the daring vs. the defensive, the old guard vs. the new. Designers like Jonathan Anderson, Simon Jacquemus, Miuccia Prada and Nadège Vanhee get it—fashion’s future isn’t about hype. It’s about connection, relevance, and cultural resonance. The runway is just a small part of the story, the divide is clear industry wide, from media and marketing to retail.
This clash of old and new wasn’t just apparent on the runways—it played out across the fashion capitals too. New York buzzed, but the real excitement was off the catwalk—intimate gatherings powered by real dialogue. From The Row alum Colleen Allen’s debut colletcion to Nike’s charm-making at WSA, there was an energy of possibility and craving for connection. London, on the other hand, was a letdown—a busy schedule, but no spark. Then came Milan, proving it’s not just a commercial city. Designers embraced individuality with an unexpected boldness. And Paris? The energy matched Milan’s. Not all shows wowed, but the magic was in the moments around them—Ramdane Touhami’s boutique opening and birthday party and Wardrobe.NYC’s event with Rosie Huntington-Whiteley at Caviar Kaspia. It felt like Paris still knew how to have fun.
Courtesy of Loewe.
Ramya Giangola of Good Eggs on the biggest shifts in fashion week since she started working in the industry.
Fashion’s at a crossroads. The old guard is holding onto tradition, but the new guard is shaking things up, understanding that fashion is bigger than just clothes. It’s about culture, storytelling, and connection—all wrapped in great design. The future belongs to the risk-takers, the ones rewriting the rules. The lines have been drawn, and it’s time to see who will lead the charge.