The Modern Sportswear Lexicon
Photography by Lena Herrmann
The Modern Sportswear Lexicon
Through five foundational pieces of our wardrobe, the tracksuit, the jersey, leggings, the bra and shorts we explore the stories behind the garments that move with us.
In Partnership with Nike
By Bonnie Langedijk
Women’s lives are built on movement. Not just on courts or tracks—but in every facet of existence. We sprint from school drop-offs to boardrooms, pivot between personal passions and professional ambitions, and jump between the physical and virtual worlds. Movement is constant, demanding, fluid. As the boundaries between athleticism and daily life blur, sportswear has evolved—not just as a utility, but as an identity.
For athletes, these garments are precision-engineered tools: aerodynamic, sweat-wicking, built for speed and endurance. But for the everyday woman, sportswear is something more—a seamless blend of functionality and style, reflecting our shifting rhythms and diverse roles. Today’s sportswear bridges performance and practicality, creating a shared language between the demands of sport and the complexities of modern life.
For decades, women adapted to a world that wasn’t built with them in mind—on the field, in the workplace, and in fashion. Sportswear was no exception. Options were limited, design was an afterthought, and functionality often came at the expense of femininity or individuality. Women embraced sportswear and made it their own, even when it didn’t fully embrace them. Audrey Hepburn in leggings, Jane Fonda’s workout revolution, and Princess Diana’s off-duty tracksuits were all quiet rebellions, merging performance with style in ways that redefined what women could wear—and why.
When Nike launched its apparel line in 1978, women’s options filled just two pages in a 20-page catalog. But those early designs, like Diane Katz’s Windrunner or the 1987 Airbone—the first Nike product with a built-in sports bra—hinted at what was possible. The ‘90s brought spandex, challenging traditional ideas of fit and function, while the 2000s ushered in muted, minimal designs that blended performance with lifestyle. Women had been working out—and working—without fanfare for decades. Over time, sportswear wasn’t just something to wear for a workout—it became the foundation of the everyday wardrobe.
And now, sportswear is ours. We stopped adapting and started leading. Frustrated by decades of oversight, we redefined the industry on our own terms—demanding innovation and pushing for gear that worked with us, not against us. It’s no longer about what fits a singular version of performance. It’s about what fits us: our lives, our bodies, and our definition of style. Whether you’re tearing up the track or powering through your day, these pieces are no longer bound by context. They’re the foundation of movement—physical, mental, cultural. It’s shaped by the women who wear it, whether they’re running marathons or running errands.
The tracksuit. The jersey. The legging. The bra. The short. These aren’t just garments. They’re tools, symbols, and signals of change. They carry us through the hurdles we face, the races we run, and the plays we make every single day. Sportswear isn’t just about how we move—it’s about how we live. Active, dynamic, and entirely on our own terms.
The Women's Loose UV Woven Full-Zip Jacket, captured by Lena Herrmann
Born in the late '30s, its roots were in practicality—made for joggers and mountain climbers. But by the '70s, it was no longer just about performance. As the jogging boom took hold and fitness culture exploded, the tracksuit became the uniform of choice for anyone serious about their personal health. By the '80s, it was the unofficial attire of rebellion, as pop culture legends like Princess Diana embraced it in ways that made it about more than just athletics. Tracksuits were worn with pride, whether stepping onto a court or off a plane. It was a piece that demanded attention, a visual shorthand for movement, readiness, and effortless style.
The tracksuit merged street culture with performance, and in doing so, rewrote the rules of what sportswear could represent. From the velour styles worn by Britney and Paris in the 90s and 00s, to the practical tearaway pants, the suit has been co-opted, reappropriated, and embraced by everyone—from Olympic athletes to aesthetes to the girl next door.
THE SUIT
The tracksuit is a PARADOX of comfort and cool. From its beginnings as a utilitarian piece to keep athletes warm, the suit quickly evolved into a cultural icon, worn by basketball legends and pop culture’s greats.
THE JERSEY
The jersey is more than just a UNIFORM—it’s a symbol of identity, of attitude, of belonging. For decades, it’s been the visual representation of what it means to be part of something bigger—whether on the field or off it.
Nike’s Vapor Women's Flag Football Jersey, captured by Lena Herrmann
As women’s sports grew in visibility in the 1990s, so did the power of the jersey. Nike’s first women’s jerseys in running, followed by women’s football in 1996, signaled a shift—athletic apparel wasn’t just for athletes anymore; it became a cultural icon. The jersey’s influence didn’t stop at the field. Artists, musicians, and fashion designers quickly adopted it, transforming it into a statement piece. From Missy Elliott’s bold looks to Mariah Carey wearing Michael Jordan’s jersey as a dress, the jersey became a symbol of defiance and self-expression, moving between sportswear and street style. Designers like Ralph Lauren, Marni, and Louis Vuitton adopted the jersey’s iconic elements—stripes, numbers, and fabrics—transforming it from athletic gear into a luxury statement.
For women, the jersey has always been a symbol of both achievement and struggle. Historically, they wore scaled-down versions of men's designs. But as women’s sports gain visibility, the opportunity to design a jersey that celebrates the female form—both in function and in spirit—has never been more ripe. It’s an ongoing evolution, one that redefines what it means to wear a jersey, and who gets to wear it. The next generation of iconic jerseys is waiting to be created, and with it, the next wave of female athletes who will wear them with pride.
Nike Zenvy Women's Gentle-Support High-Waisted 7/8 Leggings, captured by Lena Herrmann
When they first emerged in the '80s, the skin-tight pants were groundbreaking. Their body-hugging fit revealed more skin than what was traditionally seen on the street, and their rise was seen as shocking to many. But what once seemed daring quickly became a symbol of strength and freedom.
Initially designed for male runners, leggings were soon embraced by dancers and athletes, offering the flexibility and movement needed for their routines. They then broke into the broader cultural consciousness when fashion icons like Madonna and Olivia Newton-John wore them on stage and screen. From Madonna’s ‘Like a Virgin’ video to Olivia Newton-John's iconic black disco pants in Grease, leggings became a statement piece—bold, rebellious yet chic. Debbie Harry’s leopard print spandex and the aerobics craze of the '80s further cemented leggings as a wardrobe staple.
By the 2000s, leggings had transcended sports to become a wardrobe staple, embraced by all—from the gym to the runway. The body-hugging nature of leggings, once controversial, began to symbolize inclusivity—showing that leggings were for every body type, shape, and size. From their humble athletic beginnings to becoming an everyday style icon, leggings have evolved into a cornerstone of modern wardrobes—making it clear that comfort and style can coexist.
THE LEGGING
There are few SPORTSWEAR pieces that have infiltrated the modern wardrobe the way the legging has.
THE BRA
The sports bra is as much a REVOLUTION as it is a necessity—transforming how women participate in sports and how society views their bodies in motion.
Nike’s Swoosh Bra, captured by Lena Herrmann
Before the 1970s, bras were designed to conceal, not support. There was little understanding that women’s bodies required specific support for sports, and the conversation around bras was often sidelined or dismissed. But in 1977, Hinda Miller, Lisa Lindahl, and Polly Palmer Smith created the first sports bra, the "Jock Bra" (later renamed Jogbra), sparking a movement that women’s bodies deserved to move freely and comfortably.
During the 80s, second-wave feminism and the studio fitness craze took hold of culture, shifting attitudes toward women’s sports and the clothing they wore. Female sexuality became more visible and unapologetic, with unitards, bodysuits, and crop tops dominating the fitness scene—clothing designed to showcase the bodies they were sculpting.
In 1999, Brandi Chastain’s iconic World Cup celebration shifted how the world viewed women in sports. When the athlete ripped off her jersey to reveal her black Nike sports bra, it wasn’t just a victory moment—it was a declaration of ownership over both her body and her success. Nike saw the significance and responded in a way only Nike does. The American sportswear giant launched its Inner Actives bra range with a collection of ads featuring nude breasts alongside the slogan printed in Sans-Serif, “After years of exercise, what kind of shape will your breasts be in?”
The campaign—striking in its rawness—was about more than bras. It was about freedom. Nike’s response to Chastain’s celebration was clear: we support women’s bodies in all their forms. It wasn’t just a new product line; it was a statement. Sports bras weren’t just about function anymore—they were about celebrating women’s strength, their movement, and their bodies as powerful, unstoppable forces.
Nike AeroSwift Dri-FIT ADV Mid-Rise Brief-Lined 8cm Running Shorts, captured by Lena Herrmann
Nike’s dedication to women’s apparel began with one visionary: Diane Katz. In the late ‘70s, Katz, Nike’s first trained apparel designer, took on the task of crafting sportswear that actually worked for women. Her designs paved the way for the brand’s women’s shorts, and in turn, changed the landscape of athletic wear.
The journey of women’s shorts, however, is just part of the broader evolution of women in sport. Tennis, for example, has long been rooted in outdated ideas about what women can and can’t wear. In the 1920s, Suzanne Lenglen, the French tennis star, made waves when she wore gauzy, feminine tennis dresses that exposed her muscular body and tanned arms. Her bold choice shocked audiences but also signaled the beginning of a new era—one where women could embody strength and athleticism without having to hide it.
Fast-forward to today, and women still face the ongoing battle of choice in athletic wear. While tennis rules around wearing shorts remain ambiguous, the key message has always been about freedom: women now have the option to wear what makes them feel comfortable and powerful. Whether it’s loose-fitting shorts or more fitted designs, the choice is now theirs.